Elizabeth Hawley's 1911 Inaugural Gown
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History & Notes: Mary Elizabeth Bullock Hawley wore this lovely black gown to the inaugural ball of her husband, Governor James Hawley, in 1911. Born in New York, Mary and her parents came to Idaho territory as pioneers in the early 1860s. Throughout her life in the growing state, Mary was instrumental to the development of educational and philanthropic communities in the Treasure Valley. After her death in 1915, Mary's family kept the gown for generations and in 2002, Lawrence Sirhall donated the gown to the Idaho State Historical Society in memory of Emma Lucy Sirhall.
Description: Two piece beaded and embroidered black silk satin and net gown. Blouse waist is long sleeved and features a cream yoke with lace high collar trimmed with black beading top edge. At bottom of the cream lace yoke are shaped overlays of black lace which creates a rounded V. Lapels are embellished with elaborate beaded embroidery using silver and black beads with flowers made from brown and metallic cord. Sheer black netting covers a satin base bodice base. Long sleeves comprises three layers; an outer elongated short sleeve of black netting with a slender beaded trim at cuff, a 3/4 length sleeve of netting trimmed in a wide cuff of embroidered and beaded flowers, and a base long sleeve of tucked black netting overlayed upon black satin also edged with a narrow band of bead work at the cuffs. Two narrow beaded bands run down front and back center. Front hook and eye closure is hidden by overlapping panels which terminate in a satin waist band that overlaps at front left. A woven sateen band forms the inner petersham and is embroidered with gold thread to spell out "Pogues." Internal boning for support in silk lined inner bodice. Full length skirt is gored black satin with a short train. A sheer faux wrap over skirt overlaps at front is trimmed in narrow bands of bead work along vertical edges and is hemmed in a wide panel of floral embroidery and bead work matching that on the bodice. At the back hem of the over skirt are two black satin flowers on either side of the back slit which are connected with a wide strip of black fabric. Hook clasps at top of skirt. Five fabric covered weights sewn into the hem of the skirt.
Object Number: 2002.018.0001
Object: gown
Category: Women's Garments
Circa: 1910
Materials: textile, metal, glass
Donor: SIRHALL, LAWRENCE G.
Description: Two piece beaded and embroidered black silk satin and net gown. Blouse waist is long sleeved and features a cream yoke with lace high collar trimmed with black beading top edge. At bottom of the cream lace yoke are shaped overlays of black lace which creates a rounded V. Lapels are embellished with elaborate beaded embroidery using silver and black beads with flowers made from brown and metallic cord. Sheer black netting covers a satin base bodice base. Long sleeves comprises three layers; an outer elongated short sleeve of black netting with a slender beaded trim at cuff, a 3/4 length sleeve of netting trimmed in a wide cuff of embroidered and beaded flowers, and a base long sleeve of tucked black netting overlayed upon black satin also edged with a narrow band of bead work at the cuffs. Two narrow beaded bands run down front and back center. Front hook and eye closure is hidden by overlapping panels which terminate in a satin waist band that overlaps at front left. A woven sateen band forms the inner petersham and is embroidered with gold thread to spell out "Pogues." Internal boning for support in silk lined inner bodice. Full length skirt is gored black satin with a short train. A sheer faux wrap over skirt overlaps at front is trimmed in narrow bands of bead work along vertical edges and is hemmed in a wide panel of floral embroidery and bead work matching that on the bodice. At the back hem of the over skirt are two black satin flowers on either side of the back slit which are connected with a wide strip of black fabric. Hook clasps at top of skirt. Five fabric covered weights sewn into the hem of the skirt.
Object Number: 2002.018.0001
Object: gown
Category: Women's Garments
Circa: 1910
Materials: textile, metal, glass
Donor: SIRHALL, LAWRENCE G.